Uptown · New Orleans

A day in Uptown.

Carrollton was its own town before New Orleans annexed it in 1874. Today the streetcar, Oak Street and Maple Street give it a village center. This guide starts there on the St. Charles streetcar at 8:30 in the morning, crosses Audubon Park to the river, rides east to Napoleon Avenue and ends with a band.

A green St. Charles streetcar beneath the oak canopy along the Uptown tracks.
  • A town before a neighborhood

    Carrollton was laid out in 1833, incorporated in 1845 and annexed in 1874. The streetcar still runs down the middle of Carrollton Avenue.

  • Oak Street and Maple Street

    Oak Street has shops, restaurants and the Maple Leaf Bar. Maple Street has coffee houses, bars and upscale shops. Tulane and Loyola are a few blocks away.

  • Park and river

    Audubon Park covers about 350 acres and hosted the 1884 World Cotton Centennial. Its riverside end is known as The Fly.

  • Old rooms, long nights

    Pascal’s Manale opened in 1913, the Maple Leaf in 1974, Tipitina’s in 1977 and Brigtsen’s in 1986. They fill the evening.

  1. 8:30 AMStreetcar and breakfast
  2. 11:30 AMOak Street and the park
  3. 4:30 PMOysters and drafts
  4. 6:30 PMDinner
  5. 9:00 PMLive music and a late drink
Start the day ↓

Hours and menus change. Confirm before you go.

Uptown · 18 stops · 8:30 AM to last call

Streetcar to last call.

Morning · 8:30 AM

Streetcar and breakfast

Start on the streetcar.

01 · 8:30 AM

St. Charles Streetcar

S. Carrollton Ave. at St. Charles Ave. · Google Maps ↗

The St. Charles line began service on September 26, 1835. It is described as the oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world, and it became a National Historic Landmark in 2014.

Ride it uptown until the tracks turn onto Carrollton Avenue at the Riverbend. The line keeps going up the middle of Carrollton to South Claiborne. This was once the town of Carrollton: laid out in 1833, incorporated in 1845 and annexed by New Orleans in 1874.

02 · 8:30 AM

Camellia Grill

626 S. Carrollton Ave. · Google Maps ↗

Camellia Grill opened on December 19, 1946. It is a counter diner with 29 stools. Order a giant omelet, a cheeseburger, a freeze or a pecan pie heated on the grill.

Harry Tervalon Sr. was the first waiter hired in 1946 and worked there until he retired in 1996. After Hurricane Katrina the diner stayed closed until April 2007, then reopened under new ownership.

03 · 8:30 AM

Satsuma Café

7901 Maple St. · Open daily 7 to 5, per its website · Google Maps ↗

Satsuma opened in 2009 with fresh juices, breakfast and lunch made from local and organic ingredients. Owners Peter and Cassi Dymond say nearly everything is made in-house from scratch.

This is the Maple Street location. A second Satsuma sits on Dauphine Street in the Bywater.

04 · 8:30 AM

Breads on Oak

8640 Oak St. · Check hours before you go · Google Maps ↗

Breads on Oak describes itself as a plant-based bakery. It makes organic sourdough breads and pastries and serves breakfast and lunch.

The shop also bakes a king cake that it calls award-winning.

05 · 8:30 AM

Riccobono’s Panola Street Café

7801 Panola St. at Burdette · Open daily 8 to 2, per its website · Google Maps ↗

Riccobono’s opened in 1998 and is known for breakfast. The menu has six kinds of eggs Benedict, including crabcake and Sardou, plus three-egg omelets, huevos rancheros and pancakes with pecans or banana nut.

It sits in the University area, about a mile from the Riverbend streetcar stop.

Midday · 11:30 AM

Oak Street and the park

Browse Oak Street. Then go see the river.

06 · 11:30 AM

Blue Cypress Books

8123 Oak St. · Mon to Fri 10 to 6, Sat 10 to 5, Sun 11 to 4, per its website · Google Maps ↗

A shop for new, used and rare books. Its site lists a secondhand section, an online rare-book storefront, book clubs and an events calendar.

Check the calendar before you go. The next stop is next door.

07 · 11:30 AM

Haase’s

8119 Oak St. · Google Maps ↗

Haase’s opened in 1921 on Oak Street, founded by Boris and Della Haase. It sells children’s shoes and clothing.

Haase’s Young Folks Shop opened next door in 1931. Kevin and Judy Caliva own the business today.

08 · 11:30 AM

Lebanon’s Café

1500 S. Carrollton Ave. · BYOB, no reservations · Google Maps ↗

Chef-owner Hussain Alsherees cooks Lebanese and Middle Eastern food. The chicken shawarma is marinated for three days and hand-sliced from a vertical rotisserie.

The menu also has rosemary lamb chops, hummus, falafel, tabouleh and kibby. Bring your own wine. The restaurant does not take reservations.

09 · 11:30 AM

The Fly

Audubon Riverview Park · About 1.5 miles from the Riverbend · Google Maps ↗

The Fly is the riverside end of Audubon Park, a stretch of open grass beside the Mississippi. The park covers about 350 acres and was the site of the 1884 World Cotton Centennial.

The nickname comes from a butterfly-shaped river-viewing shelter built in the 1960s and demolished in the 1980s. Locals kept the name. Bring a blanket.

Late afternoon · 4:30 PM

Oysters and drafts

Start with oysters.

10 · 4:30 PM

Cooter Brown’s Tavern & Oyster Bar

509 S. Carrollton Ave. · 11 AM to 1 AM daily · 21 and over · Google Maps ↗

Cooter Brown’s has been open since 1977. It lists 84 taps: 38 at the front bar and 46 rotating craft beers at the back bar. Raw Louisiana oysters come on the half shell.

Wild Louisiana oysters are half price on Tuesdays from 3 PM to midnight. The wall of the “Beersoleum” holds portraits of deceased celebrities. No one under 21 is admitted.

11 · 4:30 PM

Bruno’s Tavern

7538 Maple St. at Hillary · Reopened August 10, 2026, per the Tulane Hullabaloo · Google Maps ↗

Bruno’s traces its roots to Leo Bruno’s College Inn, which opened in 1934, according to Hoodline. It sits a short walk from Tulane and Loyola.

The bar closed in April 2026 and reopened in August under new owners, three of whom used to manage it. Sammy’s, a bodega-style kitchen inside, serves New York sandwiches such as the chopped cheese. Wine Wednesday stays, and children are not allowed.

12 · 4:30 PM

Fat Harry’s

4330 St. Charles Ave. at Napoleon · About 2 miles downriver by the streetcar line · Google Maps ↗

Fat Harry’s sits at St. Charles and Napoleon avenues on a Mardi Gras parade route. According to New Orleans Magazine, the building was once The Corral and then Gerald’s Key Club. Harry Begg bought it in 1970 and renamed it. Dickie Unangst bought it in 1974.

An electrical fire on September 2, 2012 gutted the building, and it closed for about four months. The magazine’s 2013 profile lists outdoor tables, cold draft beer and the Jazz Burger.

Evening · 6:30 PM

Dinner

Book one table.

13 · 6:30 PM

Pascal’s Manale

1838 Napoleon Ave. · Dinner seven days a week, per Hoodline (Sept. 2026) · Google Maps ↗

Frank Manale opened this corner grocery and bar in 1913. Pascal Radosta took over in 1937 and added his name. Barbecue shrimp is the dish to order. Hoodline credits Radosta with recreating it in 1954 and calls the origin story local lore.

The stand-up marble oyster bar is still here, and Thomas “Uptown T” Stewart, the longtime shucker, still works it. A 2026 renovation expanded the Manning Room, which honors Archie Manning and his family. Dickie Brennan & Co. has owned the restaurant since 2023.

14 · 6:30 PM

Brigtsen’s

723 Dante St. · Dinner Tue to Sat from 5 PM · Reservations by phone, 504-861-7610 · Google Maps ↗

Chef Frank Brigtsen and his wife, Marna, opened Brigtsen’s in 1986 with help from Paul Prudhomme and K Prudhomme. It sits on Dante Street in the Riverbend.

The menu includes shrimp bisque, filé gumbo with chicken and andouille, roast duck with dried cherry sauce and trout meunière with pecans. Reservations are by phone only, and the last seating is at 8:30.

15 · 6:30 PM

Jacques-Imo’s Café

8324 Oak St. · Dinner only · call for hours · Google Maps ↗

A lively Oak Street dinner spot that Explore Louisiana calls one of the city’s hottest tickets for real New Orleans food. It singles out the Eggplant Pirogue, an eggplant stuffed with oysters in a lemon cream sauce, and a Cajun bouillabaisse with oysters, shrimp and mussels.

There is also a two-top table inside a pickup truck parked out front. Try to reserve it.

Nightcap · 9:00 PM

Live music and a late drink

End with a band.

16 · 9:00 PM

Maple Leaf Bar

8316 Oak St. · Google Maps ↗

The Maple Leaf has hosted live music on Oak Street since February 24, 1974. After Hurricane Katrina it stayed closed for several weeks. Walter “Wolfman” Washington played the first show back on September 30, 2005, powered by a diesel generator, until a curfew shut it down.

The ashes of the poet Everette Maddox are buried in the patio. Check the calendar for tonight’s band.

17 · 9:00 PM

Carrollton Station

8140 Willow St. · Google Maps ↗

Carrollton Station calls itself the oldest continuously operating barroom in the Carrollton neighborhood. NOLAplaces dates the current bar to 1980, under William Wilson, and mentions a Brunswick bar from 1904.

The room has an intimate stage for modern jazz and jam sessions, and a patio out back. It is a short walk from the Maple Leaf.

18 · 9:00 PM

Tipitina’s

501 Napoleon Ave. at Tchoupitoulas · About 3 miles from Oak Street, so plan a ride · Google Maps ↗

Local music fans opened Tipitina’s on January 14, 1977 as the 501 Club, named for its address. It took its name from the song “Tipitina” by Professor Longhair, who played there until his death in 1980.

The building dates to 1912. In the early 1980s the radio station WWOZ had studios upstairs. The band Galactic bought the club in December 2018. Check the schedule before you go.

Sources

Photos come from the sources named in each caption, and most are undated. The Pascal’s Manale photo (June 2021) is by Infrogmation of New Orleans and the Tipitina’s photo (June 2026) is from Wikimedia Commons; both are licensed CC BY-SA 4.0. Satsuma, Bruno’s and Fat Harry’s use type plates instead of photos. Hours, menus and ownership change, so confirm before you go. Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL); the base map is tinted for this page.

8:30 AMMorning01 / 18
© OpenStreetMap contributors
A green St. Charles streetcar, number 911, running down a tree-lined strip of grass.
St. Charles StreetcarPhoto: New Orleans & Company
A black-and-white photo of the white-columned front of Camellia Grill, with red lettering and a white picket fence.
Camellia GrillPhoto: Camellia Grill
Satsuma CaféType plate
A wooden board of breads, pastries, an avocado and mushroom sandwich, a salad and a cup of coffee.
Breads on OakPhoto: Breads on Oak
Riccobono’s Panola Street Café, a yellow wood building with a metal roof, a palm and a painted sign over the door.
Riccobono’s Panola Street CaféPhoto: Riccobono’s Panola Street Café
The blue hand-painted window lettering of Blue Cypress Books on Oak Street.
Blue Cypress BooksPhoto: New Orleans & Company
A black-and-white photo of a Haase’s shop window with a Keds bicycle contest sign, a bicycle and rows of shoes.
Haase’sPhoto: Haase’s, undated
Lebanon’s Café with its green awning and sidewalk tables on Carrollton Avenue.
Lebanon’s CaféPhoto: New Orleans & Company
The grassy riverbank at The Fly, with a red hammock, pine trees and a ship on the Mississippi.
The FlyPhoto: New Orleans & Company
A pint of beer and a tray of fried seafood and fries on a table in the warm, dim bar at Cooter Brown’s.
Cooter Brown’s Tavern & Oyster BarPhoto: Cooter Brown’s
Bruno’s TavernType plate
Fat Harry’sType plate
The green clapboard side of Pascal’s Manale with neon script reading Pascal’s Manale Restaurant and Bar.
Pascal’s ManalePhoto: Infrogmation of New Orleans, CC BY-SA 4.0, June 2021
The sign and front door of Brigtsen’s, a white wooden cottage with hanging baskets and red geraniums.
Brigtsen’sPhoto: New Orleans & Company
The painted, plant-covered dining room at Jacques-Imo’s, with tables in colorful cloths.
Jacques-Imo’s CaféPhoto: Rebecca Todd, via New Orleans & Company
The Maple Leaf Bar, a yellow two-story building with a balcony on Oak Street.
Maple Leaf BarPhoto: Maple Leaf Bar
Carrollton Station, a low corner building with a green roof and beer signs on Willow Street.
Carrollton StationPhoto: NOLAplaces
Tipitina’s, a yellow two-story clapboard building at the corner of Napoleon Avenue and Tchoupitoulas Street, with a brick building beside it.
Tipitina’sPhoto: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0, June 2026